An ungentrified home with un-hipster local
North of Jose Ignacio, a few kilometers inland from km marker 176 on Ruta 9 lies the tiny village of Garzon, the latest extreme-makeover subject of chef/entrepreneur Francis Mallmann, the same who put Jose Ignacio on the map.
After hearing the fans and detractors for a couple of years already, we finally made the trek this past weekend. We actually got the idea while having lunch, so we saved dessert for El Garzon, the restaurant.
Our impressions are as follows:
The village is as cute as it is tiny. The square, with the old palm trees is beautiful.
The extreme makeover job is only partially done, and therefore the town is not a Disney version of its former self, although that could easily happen in about 5 minutes, so hurry over to check it out before it's quaint in the bad way.
Trading Post, a cute renovation job
The impeccable good taste of Mallmann, Hojman and other assorted trendies (too much of which can make you gag) contrasts with some of the "renovations" by locals who don't quite get it but think that a couple of cans of paint -- of the most unfortunate shades -- will net them a fortune in flipping profits. Funny.
As for the restaurant, it's charming enough, and the desserts were wonderful, especially the lemon crostatta. It was cute on arrival to see a few local kids using the restaurant's wifi with their Ceibal laptops...
I recommend going back to Punta del Este through a different back road so you can appreciate the countryside, including Agroland's olive plantation and windpower farm.
The restaurant, predictably, was full of Brazilians from Sao Paulo, coinciding with the long September 7 weekend. Both tables next to us were returning clients who were not scared away by the prices (steep) and found the place charming enough for a second visit after their initial one last summer.
Friday, September 11, 2009
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
The best education money can buy in Punta del Este, and its costs
Before anyone starts pelting me with rotten tomatoes, I should clarify that we´re talking academic institutions and not "what I learned from life," or from the street, or from the love that so-and-so gave me. For those who feel they can impart to their children whatever is necessary so they won´t turn into spoiled brats (more on that later), and whose children can handle the rough and cruel world of a regular school, then Saint Clare´s is in a different league among schools in Punta del Este. Warning, the English part of the website wasn't working when I checked in, although some items were available in English.
Punta del Este is a young market in terms of private education. First there were the nuns, then the IUA (Instituto Uruguayo Argentino) a solid private school with English content but not bilingual; and then, with the Argentine crisis and the migration of families in 2002-2003, an eurption in private, so-called bilingual schools, concurrently with the bankruptcy of some, (many families here couldn't pay the private school's tuitions during the economic crisis) and in March 2004, the emergence of Saint Clare's with some of the children and staff from the defunct St. Catherine's and others.
The first difference is that SC is the only really really bilingual school in Punta del Este, where various subjects are taught in English language -- 26 hours a week of content instruction in English -- where the elementary school curriculum is organized around the Cambridge International Primary Program, and which offers the International Baccaleaureate of Geneva.
According to headmaster/principal Daniel Reta, the school at present has some 300 students, with a staff of 80, of which some 20 are foreigners. Reta is quick to mention the British Schools in Montevideo as a comparable institution, and at least we can say it's a guiding light. It should be hard to emulate what the BS has achieved in 100 years of existence, but the model is one of smart teaching, and smart learning -- rather than the Uruguayan system of rote, brain atrophing education spiced up with some English classes -- and lots of extracurricular activities.
My feeling is SC will need a few years to achieve the size, recognition and financial means that will allow them to have a large enough number of quality foreign teachers, but as Reta says, "It's not easy, you can't hire the first backpacker who stops by on his way to visit the ruins at Machu Pichu. We need the right backgrounds in education."
As an alumnus of the British Schools of Montevideo, I am well aware of the virtues and problems of the elite school. My mention above of spoiled brats is something I encountered in my own years at school, a risk my father was constantly vigilant against, what with us in school with "the children of privilege." Well, the news is that the experience is survivable. The other news is that most of the "children of privilege" later in life turn out to be normal people. And the last but most important news is that if your children turn out to be trouble like me, drop out of high-school and never really go to college, well, then you can take some comfort in the fact that they did access the best academic education they could during their elementary and secondary years.
Another aspect of SC which makes it quite unique is that it's the most international school in the country, bar none. Uruguayan students make up only 40% of the student body, with Argentines accounting for 30% and the remaining 40% divided between a host of nationalities that sounds quite exotic to my ears. Macedonian? Botswanan? Reta says the school had 55 new admissions this year, a boom for such a small school, and that they are expecting a new "Argentine invasion" for next year. He also mentions 100 new foreign families settling in Punta del Este annually, a rate which I would venture is about to increase as well.
In order to absorb such diverse new students, arriving at whatever time of the school calendar, Reta said the school has a very intense tutoring system that has children speaking either English or Spanish or both in just 6 months, coupled with summer school in the month of February. "We had German kids who arrived speaking not a word of English or Spanish" he says. "In six months they were speaking both."
Asked if the school is offering these intensive programs for adults, he said that as part of the SC University they will probably be adding English and Spanish courses for adults.
As for the fees, here it goes. There is an annual registration fee (matricula) of US$300, with up to 20% discount for advance payment.
Kinder starts at 16 months of age, with AM and PM shifts that are elective through Kinder 3, at the same cost as the full day (say, you can take your toddler only in the morning or only in the afternoon, or both morning and afternoon, it always costs the same) and starts at US$200 per month, increasing progressively up to US$380 per month for Kinder 5.
For elementary grades 1 through 6 the monthly fee is US$440, for Junior High 1 through 3 it's US$470, High-School 4 it's US$520 per month and for the International Baccalaureate, grades 5 and 6 of secondary school, the monthly cost is US$610.
There is a discount for second child of 10%, and of 20% for a third child. Other discounts may apply for advance payment of the monthly fee... but better ask the school for that. Also, they do offer some scholarships for new admissions into certain grades when they have gender imbalances...
Please note that the figures in US$ are my conversions from the peso figure as of yesterday, and that they may vary with the currency fluctuation (they should have been lower all last year) and are adjusted annually, in pesos, according to inflation.
598 42 490 200 / California corner with Los Medanos / info@stclares.edu.uy
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Punta del Este based Mantra to expand to Brazil, Argentina
The owners of the Mantra Hotel have announced the incorporation of the Mantra Resorts, Hotels and Casinos group, with the intention of expanding to Brazil and Argentina in the luxury hotel or gaming business.
Their establishments will be branded "by Mantra" such as the Nogaro Casino on Gorlero Ave., to be refurbished with an US$18 million investment
In October Mantra will launch its first international venture, a boutique resort in Paraiba, Brazil. From Brasilturis Jornal.
Their establishments will be branded "by Mantra" such as the Nogaro Casino on Gorlero Ave., to be refurbished with an US$18 million investment
In October Mantra will launch its first international venture, a boutique resort in Paraiba, Brazil. From Brasilturis Jornal.
Charles Aznavour at Conrad, only for "players"
The mysterious, studly look is much better than the grinning old crooner favored of late...
Are you a gambler in good standing at the Conrad Hotel? Then you can request free tickets to go see Charles Aznavour on Friday evening. Other for-VIP-only musical events in the horizon include Cacho Castaña (you don't want to activate your special connections for that one).
On the food front, there is an "Asian food festival" starting today through Sunday, and again on Sat. 18 and Sunday 19th. Buffet style. And through September, on Saturdays at lunchtime you have the chance to try the "puchero" a traditional "throw everything you have around in the pot and then drink the broth and eat the meats and vegetables separately" hearty meal. Highly recommended.
The Conrad's high-tea is particularly good, although with the disadvantage of being served in the depressing dark place off the lobby (Veleros), with "fashion shows" or "flamenco classes" or other such torturing "entertainment". That said, we always indulge a few times a year. Now is a good time to try it out, as Monday through Thursdays there's a 2x1 promotion, that is, US$20 for two people for the buffet, which usually includes a single beverage per person.
If you're of the male, sports-fan, alcohol drinking persuasion, the same place, Veleros, turns into a "sports bar" from Thursdays through Sunday, with 2x1 drinks between 8 pm and 1 am, and US$20 tapas buffet.
Post-concert comment: he rocked! What a treat! And it is supposedly his farewell tour.
Organ concert at the Maldonado Cathedral this Sunday -- come out and support some local talent!
Graciela, our patron of the local arts and of the Maldonado Cathedral as well, suggests attending the concert this Sunday (8 pm) by the very talented and young local organ player Santiago Rodriguez Tort.
Best of all, it's free admission!
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Reason to invest in Punta del Este number 37: Uruguay is getting bigger!
The story in Mercopress is thankfully in English, so go ahead and read it there... Now, because we are presumably not paying for this extra territory, rather than being diluted, your purchase entitles you to more oil! More natural gas! Imagine, Uruguay turning into Norway.
Just don't turn the tables on me and tell me to imagine Uruguay turning into Venezuela, I am not entertaining such scenario.
Consumer spending in Maldonado up 9.4% in the March-May quarter
Consumer spending in Maldonado department went up 9.4% between the months of March and May, compared with the same quarter of 2008, according to figures quoted by El Pais and attributed to an entity called the Observatorio Turistico, a joint venture between various local chambers of commerce.
It appears that we're inching towards a greater availability of economic data in general, and the news article in El Pais yesterday (long and confusing, but here it is) brings a new indicator of economic activity in Maldonado, this time measuring consumption of basic items such as water, electricity and gasoline, aimed at detecting the ups and downs of the tourism business in the department. Well, at least new to me.
The biggest increases were seen in April, which this year included the Easter holiday, usually falling in March. And yet, to everyone's shock, throughout the quarter consumption of food, fuels, water and other staples increased at more than respectable rates. For March and April taken together, the percentage climbs to 10.7%.
In addition to the calendar explanation --which doesn't account for the entire quarter anyway-- the Observatorio attributed the increased activity to uncharacteristically benign weather throughout the quarter. Considering the early spring we're going through, the same should be expected for the last quarter.Three cheers for global warming.
Now the bad news: there was a marked decrease in the number of foreign tourists who visited in Easter, with Brazilians down 10.5%, Paraguayans down 5%, Argentines 4.6%, and with only Chileans increasing by 30%. Now how do I spin this, considering my ever positive taint on anything and everything? It's actually GREAT NEWS! because Chileans are not a "traditional" market for us and their continued expansion is just what the doctor ordered for hedging purposes, and the others, well, they will come out of their global-crisis-shock and resume their increased visits and expenditure in our shores.
Unfortunately no mention was made of foreign visitors throughout the quarter ex-Easter, and there, I would venture, may lie part of the explanation for the positive figures. From what we could see, them Argies would not go away! They came all year long! Then again, this may be just our excessively heightened traffic-plate-spotting awareness talking.
Now, if someone were to combine this data with the real-estate information, then we'd be on to something...
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